My eight month old dog keeps on crying when we don’t pay attention to him. How can I stop this?
I have an 8-month old cocker spaniel mix. We recently moved to a new home. Since we are not the homeowners, we have to tie him up so he is only limited to the kitchen area and away from the carpeted rooms. His leash has a clearance of about 8-feet, so he can roam around just fine.
Whenever we are sitting in the dining table watching TV, he keeps crying constantly until we pay attention to him. This has gone non-stop for the past month. We have tried ignoring him whenever he does this, but it has been a month. He still has not given up this behavior.
He also stopped eating his food and will only eat it if we hand feed it to him. I’ve tried mixing his IAMs Smart Puppy food with some beef sauce, but without any luck.
UPDATE 1: Just for everyone’s information the dining table is in the kitchen area. We can see him and he can see us while we are watching TV. We take him to visit my parents dog at least three times a week, and we have noticed that he gets tired after we get home from all that playing. However, he still has the tendency to whine and cry even after a few hours of play time.
Also, there’s nothing physically wrong with him. We’ve taken him to the vet as recently as last week, and she said that he is healthy. He does have some flaking problems, but he’ll be using medicated shampoo from now on.
Sounds like he has you trained. I had to do this for crate training my pup, you have to let your pup cry it out, don’t give it any attention until it is quiet. No matter how long it takes if it’s crying for a long time don’t give in cause if you give in it will figure oh if i cry for a long time someone is going to come to me. Or you could try when she whines go over to the crate and say “Quiet!” and shake can that is filled with pennies or whatever. He won’t like the noise and should stop. Always say Quiet! First, then shake. Soon, she will know that when you say Quiet, the loud sound will come next, so just Quiet should eventually be enough without the can. Don’t say NO, say Quiet, because no is too generic. Or you could use a water gun, spray it when he whines and say quiet and praise your pup when it stops. Take your pup out for a good run or walk, tire the pup out, a tired dog is a happy dog.
You started the habit of hand feeding and created a picky eater so it’s up to you to stop. The puppy will NOT starve itself. Present the food and give your pup 20 minutes to eat.If the pup doesn’t eat,take the food up and do not offer it or treats until the next regular meal. The pup will soon learn to eat when food is presented.
Puppy Whining Do’s
-When confined to a crate or small room or pen, always give your puppy the benefit of the doubt. When she begins whining, immediately take her to her toilet area.
-Teach your dog to accept isolation and privacy. Accustom your puppy to being left by herself, even if you are home. This will prevent separation anxiety and all the problems that accompany it.
-Make sure your puppy is comfortable. Is your puppy hungry, thirsty, too hot, too cold, uncomfortable, sick, or has lost her toy under the furniture?
-When you know that all your puppy’s physical needs are met and you have taken the time to accustom her to isolation, then teach her that whining is unacceptable.
Puppy Whining Don’ts
-Do not give in and reward your puppy for whining.
-Do not hesitate to appropriately reprimand unnecessary whining.
-Do not let your dog feel abandoned.
-Do not let your dog soil her crate.
Separation Anxiety is one of the most common complaints of dog owners, although some don’t even realize it. What they do notice, is that they often come to destroyed objects and neighbors complaining about the howling and barking.
Dogs are pack animals, and and don’t like to be left alone. Some dogs will simply sigh and wait patiently for you to come back, and others will go into panic mode, crying and barking, trying to get you to come back. Some destroy things, such as plants, books, pillows, anything that was “yours”, even to the extent of defecating on the floor.
Severely dependant dogs, a.k.a. “velcro dogs”, and dogs who have either been passed around, or have been abandoned are more likely to have separation anxiety than others. The thought of being abandoned again is terrifying. Most owners unwittingly reinforce this anxiety. Making a production of leaving, and trying to reassure the dog has the opposite effect. Nothing enforces a dog’s belief that he has something to worry about more than somebody trying to keep him calm.
Like all fears, desensitizing your dog your comings and goings will help him get over his fear of abandonment. It is best to stretch this process out, but if you need to, you can try to compress it into a couple of days.
Prepare yourself to walk out the door and practice ignoring your dog completely. Do NOT say good-bye, do not cuddle her, do not let on that you are leaving at all.
This is a very common mistake people make. By reassuring your dog that you will return in only a little while, showing her affection, hoping she calms down, you are really only reinforcing the fears that your dog had to begin with. Just ignore her completely, and prepare yourself to do this from now on. However, if she sits nicely and watches you calmly, this is the time to reward her lavishly. This is the behavior you want to reinforce.
Do this, several times for a day. That’s all. Just get yourself ready to go somewhere, but don’t actually leave, unless you have to, of course, but in that case you might want to stretch the “false alarms” out over a few days. Once she’s taking the “false alarms” in stride, and can no longer tell if you are actually going to walk through the door or not, and is relaxed and calm when you put your shoes on, move on to Step Two.
Follow your “false alarm” routine that you have established. Put on your shoes, put on your jacket, and reach for the door. Open it. Walk outside, calmly ignoring the alarmed look on your dog’s face as you shut the door behind you. Count to to fifteen, fairly slowly.Listen carefully, trying not to give away your position on the other side of the door. Do you hear whining, crying, barking? If you do, prepare yourself for one of the harder moments of dog ownership …
Whimper … Whine …:
Once you’ve successfully escaped your dog, and you have left the building, listen carefully for any signs of distress. If you hear any kind of whining, or worse, barking, you need to wait it out. I would love to be able to tell you to just open the door, but if you walk back in when she’s making a fuss, you are actually rewarding the fuss, and one day, when you leave for more than a couple of minutes, your neighbors will hate you. Rewarding the fuss makes the fuss longer and louder.
Avoiding the Fuss:
Once you’ve discovered that dog is a screamer, it is best to stretch the time out as much as you possibly can: between the closing of the door, and her vocal heartbreak. To do this, do it quickly. Walk out the door following Step One’s False Alarm Procedure. Before she has a chance to howl her misery, walk right back in. The desired reaction is, of course, a look of utter astonishment “Hey! You came back!”, and happy greetings. Give your girl a treat and some effusive praise, it’s only just begun.
To keep her from having a fit moments after you leave, you need to keep doing this; extending the length of time you wait outside, but trying to time it so that you enter before she starts to cry. Remember, this is a very important thing. A few days of inconvenience now will result being able to enjoy having a dog that much more, when you no longer have to worry about leaving for an hour or more. No more eaten books, no more potty “accidents”, no more howling until you get back (your neighbors will thank you).
All is Quiet:
The best case scenario is not having a fuss at all, but rather just a bewildered dog who can’t figure out how you managed to escape. If you are lucky enough to have this happen, take advantage of it, and walk back in after a short, fifteen second interval. Repeat this many times over an extended period.
Okay, you are doing great! After a few days’ time, you should be able to walk down to the end of the driveway, pick up your mail, or wander down the street a little ways. Once you’ve extended the time between leaving and returning to a fair amount (I recommend about twenty minutes at least), you should start to scatter your return times. Walk out, and walk back in after only five minutes. Always remember to leave without fussand reward for quiet patience.
Your goal is to bring her to the point of thinking that you’ll walk back at any second, and if she waits quietly, you’ll be very happy to see her.
What can I do to get my Bullmastiff to eat?
We just moved from a big city to a little town and our other dog (an australian cattle dog) is really mean and bossy to him. She wouldn’t let him eat so we started feeding them separately. She eats outside and he eats inside. He is losing a lot of weight and I’m really worried about him. He eats Iams.
Maybe try sprinkling a bit of shredded cheese onto his food. Dogs love cheese!!! Mine do anyway, I’m sure yours would too. There’s even a sauce you can buy for dogs, I think it’s IAMS, you mix it in with their food, and adds flavour to it. Don’t worry, some dogs can be picky. You just have to try a few things out to see what he will like.
what kinds of food should i feed my 5 month old dog?
he seems to prefer people food but i don’t think that’s good for him. besides chocolates, what other foods should i not feed my dog?
Don’t feed him/her onions, grapes, or very much people food at all. Contrary to popular beliefs, an animal will not starve itself. If you put out some dry dog food(like purina dog chow, pedigree, iams, eukanuba, science diet, any decent dog food,) she/he will eat when he/she figures out that you won’t give him/her people food. Try buying a type of gravy or sauce made for dogs to put over the food to increse it’s appeal. I’m not sure about brands of gravy or sauce but I know Iams makes a sauce to put over dog’s food.
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