Discussing Questions And Answers About Vet Recommended Homemade Dog Food Recipes

Sandra asks…

What food is best for a Great Dane with short bowel syndrome?

About a month ago, I took my Great Dane into the Vet and found out that her small intestine had twisted. When they went in for surgery, they had to remove 90% of her small intestine. She recovered from surgery and is doing well. I’m a little concerned with her low energy, and she’s struggling to gain weight. At this point, she’s eating a low residue food food that the vet recommended, but I’m looking for something long term. I need to find a food that will allow her to absorb the most nutrients she can during the short time the food is in her small intestine. Any and all feedback would be very appreciated.

Jimmy answers:

I don’t know a lot about short bowel syndrome, but I can imagine that you want a food that is highly digestible. The problem with kibble is it is not very digestible. It raises the ph of the stomach so digestion cannot occur. It ends up just sitting in the stomach and doesn’t get digested until it moves on the the small intestine. If you could get a highly digestible food that allows for digestion to occur primarily in the stomach, I would think that should help.

Homemade diets are going to be the best, raw or cooked. They are highly digestible. I know because I homemake my dog’s food and her stool is half the size it was on kibble, because she can digest most of it. Low carbohydrate canned foods would also be good. Honest Kitchen is a dehydrated food that needs to be rehydrated before feeding. This food is really digestible as well. If you must stick with kibble there are some things you could try. First make sure it is low carbohydrate. Dogs cannot digest carbohydrates very well as they do not produce hardly any amylase, which is the enzyme that breaks down carbs. Add lots of water to the kibble. Dry foods are hard to digest because the stomach doesn’t produce enough fluids to wet the stomach contents to spread the stomach acid throughout the food. Feeding a high moisture diet allows the stomach acid to reach all the foods. Also add some apple cider vinegar to every meal. Vinegar is an acid which will lower the ph of the stomach. The ph of the stomach must get below 4 before digestion can occur. You can also add some digestive enzymes and probiotics, these are necessary for digestion, and most dog foods are completely devoid of them.

If you are interested in a homemade diet here is a really great recipe book that I use. It will teach you how to do either a home cooked diet or a raw diet. It’s really well balanced and AAFCO approved.


Donna asks…

Getting a rat! Any tips?

Going to the pet store to get a rat?
Well, I’m getting two rats, actually. But I need some help with information.
Firstly, I think I’m going to get two females. But in going to call some vets around and see how much it costs to neuter a male rat and maybe get one male and one female? Or preferably one fixed male and two females. But first.. When males are neutered, are their.. Uh.. “Things” still so visible? And would the rats be okay together?
Secondly, what food would be best for them? I want something I can get at the pet store.. And also maybe some little “human food” snacks I could feed them?
Since I’m getting them at a pet store, what are some signs to ensure I have a healthy rat? As well as a non-pregnant rat and such?
What are some toys and tricks I could teach them? An some good ways to introduce them to their new home, to me, and to our pets?
Are there any care things I need to know, like how do I keep them to not smell bad, and what’s the cheapest, non-smelly bedding available? I’m thinking I will get a tiny litter box in the corner of their cage and use, for bedding, some cloth? I’ll also add lots if toys and stuff, so any ideas on what Tey like to play with? I’ve heard a plastic tub would be best for an escape-proof hedgehog home, and since we already have a few of these, would they suffice for a rat home? It has two floors to it, but is that too small? It’s about the size of a 1×2.5 feet maybe?
And, we will be traveling a lot. Any suggestions for making my little ratties trips comfy?
As well as any good name ideas?
And yeah, I know getting a rat from a pet store isn’t the best option but unfortunately there are no breeders within like three hours from where I live and there’s no rescues or anything.

Jimmy answers:

A neutered male and females are perfectly fine together. However, this surgery can be very dangerous and unnecessary. I think you should just get two females (or two males, whichever you prefer). It’s just safer and easier.

Generally, rats can eat anything us humans can. With a few exceptions, of course. Here are some links that explain what human foods are safe and what isn’t.





Don’t get those seed mixes you find at the best store. Rats tend to pick at these, leaving important nutrition behind. Instead, find some high quality lab blocks. These are just small blocks that rats can’t pick through. Once very respected type of lab blocks is Oxbow. I’ve never been able to find these without having to order it. Hopefully, though, you’ll find some at your pet store.

Here are common signs of illness in rats you should look out for: constant sneezing/wheezing, dull coats, hunched position, red stuff around eyes and nose (called porphyrin), head tilt/lack of balance, etc.

Rat cages need to be filled with many cool toys. Here are some links that give you some really simple and easy homemade toys that your rats will just love!





If you can teach a dog a specific trick, you can teach a rat. This includes come when their name is called, fetch, stay, jump through a hoop, stand, etc. Rats are the most intelligent rodent, sometimes even considered more intelligent than dogs.

Pet store rats will be much more frightened than rats from reliable breeders. This is because they go absolutely NO human interaction. Take it easy with them. Pick them up slowly and with great care. The best way to get them used to you is to interact with them as often as possible. Just put them right back into their cage if they seem to stressed. Don’t introduce them to your pets until they are quite used to you.

To keep their smell down, simply clean their cage every week.

NEVER use pine or cedar bedding, because they are extremely harmful to rats. Aspen bedding is safe, though it can be too dusty for rats. I wouldn’t recommend CareFresh, because I used it for a while, and it has proven to be WAY to dusty for rats. Extra t-shirts or fleece make quick and easy bedding, though it has to be change often. You can also use shredded paper or toilet paper. This also needs to be cleaned often, though.

Rat cages should have multiple levels. I just built a rat cage that has 5 levels for my rats to play in. Two or three levels is fine, too. The bigger, the better. The cage must be at least four cubic feet; two cubic feet per rat. NEVER use tanks, because they don’t provide proper ventilation and can lead to many health issues. Here is a link that explains how to find the perfect rat cage.


A comfy trip should be in a small, well ventilated cage. This cage should have comfy bedding with plenty of food and water available. Make sure you keep your eye on the rats, because traveling can be stressful for some rats. For others, though, it’s a very enjoyable experience. Let them out every once and a while to look out of the window of your car (make sure it’s close or you are driving really slow).

My first rat’s name was Ruby. My current rats are Elsa and Paris. My next two rats will be named Pepsi and Basil. I like to use this website to find more unique name ideas.


Good luck with your new rats! If you give them plenty of love, they’ll give it right back! :)

Chris asks…

A Few Ferret Questions?

I’m thinking about getting ferrets. I just have a few questions / concerns:
- How much do they cost IN ALL? (Food, toys, cage, etc) I think I’ll get them from a shelter.
- How much space??
- How should I ‘ferret proof’ if I were to get them?
- If I have school for like 7-8 hours plus any activities would they be okay for that long? And would I keep them out or in a cage?
- Should I get more than one so they have company?
- Do they normally come spayed / neutered?
- How old should they be when I get them?
- How bad is the smell?
- Litter box train?
- Better to get males or females? Or one of each?
- Will they be okay with my small dog?

Any other help with this would be appreciated. I’ve been researching for awhile now. Thank you!!!

Jimmy answers:

With tax, the total start-up cost came to about $330. However, they if they are babies they need their first three distemper shots and a rabies shot (about $45 each). They also need annual distemper and rabies shots.

Since this is your first ferret, I would recommend not buying from a shelter, simply because if not properly trained ferrets can be aggressive. It would be difficult for a first time owner to deal with an aggressive ferret. I would suggest getting a young Marshall’s ferret (sold at pet stores like Petco and Petsmart) because they come with a three year guarantee, their first distemper shot, pre-neutered/spayed, and they have GREAT dispositions.

Ferrets don’t need huge cages, so long as you take them out and play with them for a couple of hours a day. Since ferrets sleep around 18 hours each day, they won’t mind sleeping in a smaller space.
Personally, I put a baby gate up at the door to my room (I covered up the holes with cardboard so Marceline, my ferret, couldn’t get through) and let her run around. I keep her cage door open so she can go in and out as she pleases.
Ferrets are extremely curious and are extremely talented at satisfying that curiosity. Here’s a basic list of the things you’ll need to do to ferret proof a room:
-No rubber or foam allowed. It can give ferrets life threatening blockages
-Ferrets are completely carnivorous, so anything other than meat can give them blockages
-No holes, cabinets, cracks where they can get stuck. I covered a lot of mine up with duct tape
-Be aware they can get squished in recliners, couches, chairs, dishwashers, under rugs, and in beds. These objects don’t necessarily need to be moved from a room. You just need to use caution around them if your ferret gets into any of them.
-No bleach, chemicals, pens, pencils, soap, perfume, hairspray where ferrets can get to them.
-Don’t use lysol, perfume, hairspray, or smoke around your ferret. Their tiny lungs are prone to diseases
-They like to get into trashcans and drawers

You need to dedicate at least two hours a day to having out and interacting with your ferret. You can keep them out in a safe place, like I do. But they’d be perfectly fine sleeping in their cage for that time.

Getting two ferrets so they can keep each other company is a great idea! Just keep in mind that the cost for food, litter, and vet bills double with two animals. Also, you will need a bigger cage than you would for just one.

Marshall’s spay and neuter their ferrets. Whether or not others do is different for each breeder and shelter. Just to let you know that unless you are planning to breed, female ferrets MUST be spayed. If they are not spayed, they will go into heat and not come out of heat until they have had intercourse. Being in heat too long will kill a ferret. This is another reason why I recommend Marshall ferrets, because they already come spayed/neutered

Just like any other animal, the younger ferrets are when you get them, the more you can influence their behavior and teach them what is acceptable. You can get Marshall ferrets as young as two months old. However there is nothing wrong with getting an older ferret, so long as you are prepared for any behavioral problems that may come with it. One benefit of getting an older ferret is that many of them have already had their baby shots. They are also generally more calm than younger ferrets.

As long as you properly clean the cage, the smell is really not bad at all. I empty and scrub Marcy’s cage down with hot water and all natural dish soap once a week. Remember that ferrets are very sensitive to chemicals, so only certain cleaners can be used. These include homemade vinegar cleaner (tons of recipes online), all natural dish soap, and cage cleaner specific for ferrets or small animals
You can only give your ferret a bath with soap (I use Marshall Tea Tree Ferret Shampoo) once per month. However, you can always rinse them off in warm water! Mine gets a water bath once a week. For really smelly days you can use a waterless bath spray. I use Natural Chemistry Waterless Bath for Ferrets & Small Animals.
Another great product is Marshall Pet Good Bye Odor Small Animal Waste Odor Reducer, which you pump into their water. It makes their poop stink A LOT less.
You should know that even ferrets who have been “de-stunk’ have a slight musty odor. But it’s really not as bad as people make it out to be.

In reality, ferrets will never really be 100% litter box trained. They will always have accidents.

Gender is just personal preference. Sometimes people will say that males can be less excitable than females, but it will all depend on your ferret’s personality.

When together, your ferret and your dog need to be supervised at all times.

Powered by Yahoo! Answers

Related posts:

  1. Discussing Questions And Answers About Vet Recommended Homemade Dog Food Recipes
  2. Discussing Questions And Answers About Do Vets Recommend Homemade Dog Food
  3. Discussing Questions And Answers About Home Dog Food Recipes
  4. Discussing Questions And Answers About Vet Recommended Homemade Dog Food Recipes
  5. Discussing Questions And Answers About Do Vets Recommend Homemade Dog Food
This entry was posted in Dog Food Questions. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>